If you will not be putting every bead directly into a preheated kiln, you will need to place them into a fiber blanket, perlite or vermiculite to slow the cooling of your beads. Beads that cool to quickly will crack and possibly shatter.
Mandrels
I recommend at least 4 dozen mandrels. I also recommend you start with 3/32 size. The smaller sizes are easily bent. It is difficult to get a well centered bead when your mandrel is bent and wobbling all over the place. You will notice what I'm talking about when you try using a bent mandrel. You can make these yourself or just buy them already made from one of the suppliers. Make sure you buy mandrels that have the ends ground nice and smooth. Rough edges are not comfortable when your spinning the mandrel in your hand.
Kiln
This is definitely needed to anneal your beads. And it is the most expensive item you will probably purchase. It is a general standard amongst most, but not all lampwork artists, that all beads regardless of size should be annealed. Kiln sizes, types and prices vary, so this is another item you will need to research and figure out just which one would suit your particular needs the best. I would recommend a kiln with quartz encased elements, so you don't accidentally fry yourself if you touch the element with a mandrel. That would not be a happy thing! Also I think a kiln with a doggy door is a must have. This lets a minimum of heat escape when adding more beads and decreases the chance of; thermal shocking your beads. Also consider the location of your kiln. They draw quite a bit of power and should be on it's own circuit. Kilns are available in 220volt or 110volt.
Optional Digital Kiln Controller
What the heck is a kiln controller you ask? Well, if you don't get a kiln with a digital controller, you will need to physically turn the knob to heat up or cool down your kiln at the appropriate times. If you get a controller, you simply enter your heating and cooling program and the controller does all the work for you. You don't have to fiddle with the temperature control knob trying to find just the right setting for whatever temperature you want, just program the controller what to do and it does it.
Bead Release
You will dip your rods into bead release to form a barrier from your mandrel. If glass touch's your mandrel without bead release, your bead will be stuck. I really like Fusion, and many beadmakers use Blue Sludge. There is also Alices's, Fosterfire and a few others I can't think of right now.
Glass
For beginners it is probably the easiest to use Moretti/Effetre glass. This line of glass has the most color choices and is mostly compatible within itself. The Alabaster and Opalino line have some reported compatability issues, so use these in small amounts with the regular line. In fact for beginner's I would not recommend the use of Opalino or Alabaster glass at all. It is a finicky glass, and you can tackle it after you understand the regular opaques and transparents.You can use just about any of the Soft Glass with your Hothead. Czech, Lausha, Satake, Murano etc.. You can not use Borosilicate glass with your HotHead. Boro glass requires much more heat than the HotHead can deliver.
Melinda Melanson